Washers
Washing machine won't drain or spin
Water left standing in the drum after a cycle, or laundry that comes out soaking because the machine skipped its spin, almost always traces back to the drain path rather than the motor. Working through that path in order — filter, hose, then pump — rules out the cheap fixes first.
Unplug the washer and shut off both water taps. Front-load machines hold several litres below the door line, so have a shallow tray and towels ready before you open the filter. If the machine sits on a drain pan, check that the floor drain itself is not blocked.
1. Empty and clean the drain filter
On most front-load washers the drain filter sits behind a small access panel at the lower front of the cabinet. It catches coins, lint, hair clips and the occasional sock, and a clogged filter is the single most common reason a machine refuses to drain.
- Open the lower access panel and place a tray under the filter housing.
- Drain the emergency hose if the machine has one, then unscrew the filter slowly.
- Clear debris, rinse the filter under a tap, and check the housing for stuck objects.
- Reseat the filter firmly — a loose filter leaks during the next wash.
Top-load machines often place the filter under the agitator or have a self-cleaning design with no user filter; in that case move to the hose check.
2. Check the drain hose for kinks and clogs
The corrugated drain hose runs from the pump to a standpipe or laundry tub. It kinks easily when a machine is pushed back against a wall, and the loops trap detergent scum over time.
- Pull the machine out far enough to see the full length of the hose.
- Straighten any sharp bends and confirm the hose is not crushed behind the cabinet.
- Detach the hose end at the standpipe and flush it with warm water to clear buildup.
- Make sure the hose does not sit more than a few centimetres into the standpipe, which can cause a siphon.
In older Canadian homes the laundry standpipe height and the trap design vary widely. If water backs up out of the standpipe rather than down it, the household drain — not the washer — may be the restriction.
3. Inspect the drain pump
If the filter is clean and the hose is clear but the machine still will not drain, the pump is the next suspect. With the filter removed you can usually see the pump impeller through the housing.
- With the washer unplugged, reach the impeller through the filter opening and turn it by hand.
- A smooth, free-spinning impeller is good; a stiff or jammed one suggests debris or a failed bearing.
- Listen during a drain cycle on a previous run: a humming pump that moves no water often has a seized impeller.
Replacing a drain pump is within reach for a confident homeowner on many models, but it involves disconnecting wiring and water connections. If you are not comfortable identifying the right part from the model plate, this is a sensible point to call a technician.
Quick reference
| Symptom | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| Water stands in drum, no draining sound | Clogged filter or jammed pump impeller |
| Drains slowly, partial spin | Kinked or partially blocked drain hose |
| Pump hums but no water moves | Seized impeller or failed pump |
| Drains fine but no spin at all | Door latch, lid switch or drive belt — beyond this guide |
If draining is normal but the drum never spins, the fault usually lies with the door interlock, lid switch, belt or control board. Those checks involve live testing or mechanical disassembly and are better left to a qualified appliance technician.
Further reading
For background on how front-load and top-load designs differ, the Wikipedia overview of washing machines is a reliable, publicly available reference. For energy and water ratings in Canada, see the federal ENERGY STAR program pages.